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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.